Nagano for Photographers: Inspirational Locations

Chubu Weekender cowl picture photographer Ben Beech spent a number of years residing within the midst of Nagano Prefecture’s pure splendor earlier than relocating to the capital. He usually returns to recharge, get impressed and rediscover the area. He shares a few of his favourite off-the-beaten-track locations that preserve him without end falling in love along with his first house in Japan.

Hakuba Hikes

Happo-ike is a mountain pond located at 2,060 meters above sea stage that displays the encompassing Japanese Alps completely on a transparent day. You may entry it by way of the Happo-ike Sanso mountain hut, which is positioned on the prime of Happo-one Ski Resortwithin the coronary heart of Hakuba Valley. The hut is a good place to hunker down for the night time whereas ready for view of the pond at first gentle, earlier than the crowds arrive. Or, should you choose arriving at a extra cheap hour, you’ll be able to hop on the ski lifts, which begin turning at 8:30am. It will get you to the pond by mid-morning. The observe to Happo-ike begins to the left of the hut and takes a brisk 90-minute stroll to finish.

The pond is buried underneath a thick carpet of snow for an excellent six months of the yr, however as the nice and cozy fronts transfer in and the final dregs of winter disappear, the glassy floor begins to disclose itself — often round mid- to late June. As soon as it has utterly thawed, its crystal-clear waters reveal an unbeatable view. Mirrored within the pond you will note the three peaks of the Hakuba Sanzan: Hakuba Yarigatake, Shakushi-dake and Shirouma-dake. As you stand right here, look over your shoulder and chances are you’ll even catch a glimpse of Mount Fuji within the far distance if the sky is obvious.

When you’re finished on the pond, you’ll be able to both return the way in which you got here or flip it right into a “actual” hike and traverse the ridgeline towards Karamatsu-dake, which towers a powerful 2,696 meters above sea stage. That is an roughly six-hour observe from the pond, so begin early and provides your self loads of time to finish it. That is an intermediate-level hike and respectable gear, provisions, in addition to a strong plan is a should. I attempt to hike this route partially or in full not less than as soon as each summer season, when the Tokyo warmth will get too scorching to bear. It’s, to me, the right nature escape.

Previous City Roads

mountaineering the Nakasendo path by way of the Kiso Valley in central Nagano shouldn’t be solely an effective way to see enormous swaths of the prefecture, however it additionally lets you comply with within the footsteps of famend artisans, poets, retailers and warriors.

Many vacationers most well-liked the inland Nakasendo route over its well-known older brother, the Tokaido coastal path, because it took vacationers by way of gorgeous mountainscapes, offering them with inspiration of their artwork. Hiroshige Utagawa, who contributed 46 designs to a set of 69 woodblock prints known as Views of the Nakasendo, was considered one of these. The well-known haiku grasp, Matsuo Basho, was one other, drawing inspiration right here for a lot of of his works.

I’ve traversed many of the Nakasendo route over a number of journeys, usually alone, permitting myself to get absolutely absorbed in the fantastic thing about the panorama — usually once I wanted a recent dose of inspiration. I often keep in a ryokan alongside the path or cease at relaxation homes for a cup of tea across the irori, which is usually freed from cost. The ryokan and the cities themselves keep the environment of previous Japan, with little or no trendy facilities or luxuries obtainable, making them an effective way to disconnect from the trendy world.

A Celestial Cow

Shakusonji Temple is a small temple clinging to a vertical rockface that overlooks the city of Comoros. You will discover it alongside a ravine in a thick forest, accessible by foot from Komoro Station. It takes about three hours (spherical journey) that manner, so visiting by automotive is way simpler. Shakusonji is taken into account the sister temple to Zenkojithe biggest and most well-known temple within the prefecture.

Legend says {that a} cow stole a valuable fabric from a lady on this very spot. The lady chased the cow all the way in which to Zenkoji in Nagano Metropolis, the place it remodeled into Kannon, the goddess of mercy. The lady then returned to Shakusonji, the place she enshrined the Kannon (look out for the bronze statue of a cow).

On a transparent day, the wood platform that juts out from the rockface presents a fantastic view of Mount Asama. I usually cease at this temple on my manner into Nagano from Tokyo and have by no means seen one other soul there. It’s pretty out of the way in which, in order that maybe explains why. However in my view, it’s at all times value making the detour.

Excessive Tea

Takasugi and the Flying Mud Boat are a pair of distinctive teahouses in Chino Metropolis, near Lake Suwa. They’re the creations of native architect Terunobu Fujimori and are definitely eye-catching. Made utilizing pure supplies together with mud, wooden and plaster — all sourced domestically — the teahouses have been designed to face out but additionally mix into their environment.

The Flying Mud Boat is a boat-like construction suspended within the air between two units of stills. It’s accessed by way of a ladder that’s introduced out for reserved occasions. As soon as inside you sit hunched over, swaying backwards and forwards within the breeze, whereas having fun with a recent cup of inexperienced tea.

Subsequent door, Takasugi-an (actually “too tall teahouse”), additionally propped on stilts, is harking back to a treehouse. Entry to the teahouses is restricted and solely obtainable to those that make reservations prematurely.

An Island Sanctuary

Uga Shrine is a small Shinto shrine that sits on Biwa Island (also called Bentenjima) simply off the shore of Lake Nojiri. The shrine has a historical past of some 1,300 years and is totally surrounded by a grove of cedar bushes, identifiable solely by the towering purple torii gate at its entrance. To get right here, you may want both a boat or a paddleboard. I often go by paddleboard, taking off from the southern shore and docking on the lengthy concrete pier in entrance of the torii gate. The journey takes not more than 20 minutes.

As soon as on the island, the hustle and bustle of the lake looks like one million miles away. Being surrounded on all 4 sides by thick bushes lets you be utterly swallowed by a lethal silence. Climb a stone staircase to achieve the shrine correct, which is modest in dimension however has a chilled vitality.

Elevated Spirituality

Ariakezan Shrine is a small shrine on the sting of Azumino in central Nagano on the foot of Japan’s Northern Alps. It’s usually frequented by yamabushi (non secular mountain ascetics) and practitioners of Shugendo, a type of mountain worship distinctive to Japan. The shrine sits on the foot of Mount Ariake and is used as an entry level to a number of peaks for these aiming to get nearer to the gods.

Ariakezan Shrine is surrounded by a few of the most picturesque surroundings in all of Nagano, with rice fields, wildflowers and a backdrop of mountain peaks so far as the attention can see. This normal space was one of many first locations I found in Japan once I arrived over a decade in the past, and has had considerably of a grip on me ever since. I would not be stunned if I find yourself retiring near right here at some point.

Uncover extra of Beech’s work on his web site and on Instagram.